Tote Bag

You probably have at least ten tote bags at the back of your cupboard. The humble tote bag has a knack of accumulating in a way like no other. Yet, while these reusable cotton bags may seem good in principle, they have a much larger environmental impact than appears at first glance.

While marketed as an environmentally conscious choice to discourage the use of plastic, the tote bag has a far more sinister impact on climate change. As such, seemingly sustainable products might not actually be environmentally friendly.  A 2018 Danish study found that cotton tote bags contain a significantly higher emissions output when compared to plastic bag production. According to the study, organic tote bags need to be reused at least 149 times, and regular cotton tote bags need to be reused at least 52 times, to equal the emissions emitted by the production of a plastic bag. Cotton tote bags, a staple of the fast fashion business, require a lot of energy and materials, resulting in a significant carbon footprint. In contrast, plastic bags made from oil byproducts use less energy, resulting in lower emissions. While neither is perfect, analysing the differences reveals the environmental intricacies of both options. This stark distinction emphasises the importance of thoroughly evaluating the underlying climatic costs of both tote bags and plastic bags, rather than adopting superficial ideas of sustainability. These are some significant differences in the emissions output between the two items despite cultural narratives that set out different perspectives on the ‘environmentally damaging’ disposable plastic bag and the ‘ecofriendly’ reusable bag.

Much of the tote bag’s production remains within the ‘fast fashion’ industry. Textile production is one of the highest polluting industries in the world, emitting approximately 1.2 billion tonnes of CO2 emissions per year. This represents around 10% of global emissions annually. The energy and materials required for the production of cotton is one key reason behind this, resulting in a high carbon footprint. In fact, a 2014 study found that cotton has the worst environmental performance over other textiles including nylon, elastane and polyester. This is due to the high energy requirements needed for the production of cotton. Plastic bags by contrast, are produced from by-products of the oil industry and thus require less energy to produce the raw resource. This results in an overall reduced emissions output for these bags. Evidently, the emissions discrepancies do not highlight that the plastic bag has ‘good’ environmental outputs but instead showcases the inconsistencies between the perspectives on both items.

Another significant explanation behind these high CO2 emissions is the globalisation of production. Instead of the stages of a product life cycle occurring in single location, the various aspects of production occur at multiple different locations globally.  Cotton tote bags, like much of the products in the ‘fast fashion’ industry, are made not in areas in close proximity to its consumers, but instead in regions where the product can be produced most cheaply.

In this industry, this is largely seen in areas in East and Southeast Asia where relaxed labour laws result in low production costs. The products are then shipped globally, by multiple different transport systems, including sea freight, and plane, resulting in enormous CO2 emission outputs. High rates of fossil fuel emissions are thus embedded into the global trade regime. It is estimated that approximately 6.4 billion tons of CO2, representing 23% of global emissions, are tied into globally traded goods. While local production may reduce climate change impacts, the costs involved disincentive this switch resulting in items like the simple tote bag holding a much larger carbon footprint than expected.

The Tote Bag: From Eco-Hero to Consumerist Symbol?

Tote bags are now caught up in the fast fashion industry’s high production and consumption dynamics and it has come to represent a culture of reckless consumption. Despite its admirable goals, tote bags have fallen victim to the same consumerist frenzy that drives the fast fashion sector, where items are produced at an unsustainable rate and trends change quickly.

The tote bag was formerly a practical grocery bag tool, but these days it’s a sought-after fashion piece. On these previously modest bags, brands prominently display their logos, frequently accompanied by a “sustainable” tag. Their broad availability and frequent giveaways or low-cost sales contribute to their overproduction. This is similar to the fast-fashion business model, in which manufacturing is unsustainable and trends change quickly. Although perceived as environmentally friendly, they represent the paradox of a society that struggles with excessive consumerism but longs for eco-friendly alternatives.

Photo credit: Hannah Smyth

The tote bag phenomenon needs to be understood as a global political economy issue. It is an expression of mass global consumerism – albeit one that is underpinned by a desire to consume more eco-friendly products – driving the rapid expansion of an unsustainable market for tote bags. This market for tote bags worldwide is predicted to grow to USD 3.76 billion by 2031 and is driven by a variety of uses, including fashion statements and supermarket shopping. Businesses capitalise on consumer’s desire for individuality by offering trendy designs, fostering a fast-paced cycle of consumption.  However, the eco-friendly reputation of the tote bag adds to its appeal. It is perceived as a substitute for throwaway plastic bags and a symbol of sustainability for environmentally conscious consumers.   Thus a paradox emerges in our quest for sustainability, as evidenced by the overproduction and excessive consumption of tote bags.

Grappling with Greenwashing: Tote Bag Exposé

These consumption habits are encouraged through corporate greenwashing, where brands undertake deceptive marketing strategies to mislead consumers into believing products are eco-friendly to entice eco-conscious consumption. Misleading labels, bold sustainability claims and green narratives create the façade of environmentalism, obscuring the true environmental and social impacts of the brand’s practices. The tote-bag has become a key marketing tool for brands to showcase this ‘eco-consciousness’, whilst continuing to perpetuate the environmentally devastating and socially exploitative practices evidenced above.

The Australian brand, Cotton On, proudly states that their products are: “Effortless, on-trend and affordable – made responsibly, to be loved and lived in every day.” Core to the brand’s image is this idea of ‘responsibility’ to the extent where their 2022 annual report was entitled The Good Report, espousing the rhetoric of eco-consciousness. Attached to this image of ‘responsibility’ is the Cotton On ‘recycled cotton tote bag’.

Yet, Good On You, an Australian sustainability rating platform that evaluates fashion brands, found that, “Despite its declarations of sustainability and ethical practice, Cotton On still has a long way to go before it can truly back up its claims”. Unfortunately for the 5.5 million consumers of Cotton On’s ‘recycled cotton tote bags,’ it seems those purchases were not quite as sustainable as they may have thought.

The brand retails their  ‘recycled cotton tote bag’ for £3 each on their UK website. The name implies that the tote is made entirely from recycled materials, however the small print reveals only 50% of the cotton is recycled. At only £3 each, it is no surprise that the brand revealed in The Good Report that in 2022 alone, 5.5 million ‘recycled cotton’ tote bags were sold globally. More conflicting statements come from The Good Report, with Cotton On making a subsequent claim that 100% of their cotton is ‘sustainably’ sourced. In contradiction to this, the brand later stated that 64% of the cotton sourced is conventional cotton, with 3% of cotton sourced being recycled. There is widespread consensus that conventional cotton farming is not a sustainable practice, so how can Cotton On claim to have sourced 100% of their cotton sustainably, when 64% of their cotton is farmed conventionally? Like many brands, Cotton On’s bold claims to sustainability just aren’t matching up with the reality revealed in The Good Report.

From Single-Use to Responsible Use: Developing Conscious Consumption for Our Climate

The question, ‘Do I have enough tote bags at home?’ is more than just a personal inventory check; it reflects our role in the global political economy that is driving the climate problem. Tote bags, which are frequently collected and rarely reused, represent the conflict between sustainable aspirations and consumerist realities. Our shift from plastic to cotton has yet to address the root cause of a disposable culture driven by mass manufacturing and consumption. This behaviour adds to resource depletion and increased carbon emissions, which are at the heart of the climate catastrophe. To truly address this, we must implement collective resource-sharing activities, for example bag-sharing programmes, and rethink our consumption habits. A surplus of bags at home acts as a tangible reminder of excess.  So, the next time you’re offered a free tote, remember: Just Say No.

Cover image: Artit_Wongpradu via iStock